Day 11: Chatham to Bradwell (quite close but not really) on the Sea 90 miles
Breakfast with the mystery lady, who when given her bacon and egg informed the poor cook that she didn't eat meat.
Forgot about rush hours and cycling into Chatham was a nightmare but Rochester was much better-nice castle!
After crossing bridge took my daily wrong turning and ended up on A2 into London but after chat with a parked up coach driver and managing not to get my knickers in a twist I ended up in Thong. From here it was an easy ride into Gravesend. I made it a habit in the end to call into bike shops for directions as they often knew good cycle routes and in this shop the bloke behind the counter recognised my Cornish shirt, He was born a few yards down the road from me. Some clear directions and I was on my down the main street of Gravesend and then down an alleway to the ferry.
The Gravesend Ferry was the worst I travelled on all trip. I think the toilet was leaking or else they just did it on the deck. The other thing that stood out was that people here were very wary of chatting to strangers and kept themselves very much to themselves.
Forgot about rush hours and cycling into Chatham was a nightmare but Rochester was much better-nice castle!
After crossing bridge took my daily wrong turning and ended up on A2 into London but after chat with a parked up coach driver and managing not to get my knickers in a twist I ended up in Thong. From here it was an easy ride into Gravesend. I made it a habit in the end to call into bike shops for directions as they often knew good cycle routes and in this shop the bloke behind the counter recognised my Cornish shirt, He was born a few yards down the road from me. Some clear directions and I was on my down the main street of Gravesend and then down an alleway to the ferry.
The Gravesend Ferry was the worst I travelled on all trip. I think the toilet was leaking or else they just did it on the deck. The other thing that stood out was that people here were very wary of chatting to strangers and kept themselves very much to themselves.
Off into Essex and a stop in Stanford le Hope for lunch. Next to me were two Essex school girls who ordered chips and gravy-"but not too much gravy, don't want the chips floating." They talked so fast and it was so much like a sketch from the Catherine Tate show. One of the girls was relating the sad story of her other friend who was being teased because she had a big nose. Then she phoned her mum about a note she'd forgotten to excuse her from PE. "You'll have to phone, no time to talk, love you mum bye." The two of them chatted without taking a breath. The problems they had in there young lives made me quite depressed.
From here to Southend was a long series of built up ares and busy roads until I turned down to Southend seafront and a stop for a "famous" Rossi's ice cream, The seafront lined with Rossi's ice cream kiosks and then a large ice cream parlour. I must say it was very tasty-white in colour- I prefer that to cream coloured.
The cycle for the rest of the day was very annoying. Essex seems to be made up of islands-Canvey, Foulness, Wallansea etc. and I'm sure there were many ferry services once but now you cycle miles to get around the rivers and estuaries but never seem to make much progress. The River Crouch is not wide but it still presents a long thin barrier. You get to South Fambridge and you could almost throw a stone across to North Fambridge -the roads almost meet and there used to be a ferry and there's talk of starting one again but too late for me.
The lanes are so pretty as you cycle from South woodham Ferrers to Southminster and then on to Burnham on Crouch but the whole thing is spoilt by "Essex lads" racing around testing their souped up cars. It was interesting to note that Bradwell on Sea is nowhere near the sea. Apparently it's also known as Bradwell near the Sea. Yet another nuclear power station-must find how many we have -I think I visited them all. B&B 2miles outside village so had to cycle to pub-hate doing that once I've arrived. Two pints of Spitfire tonight.
From here to Southend was a long series of built up ares and busy roads until I turned down to Southend seafront and a stop for a "famous" Rossi's ice cream, The seafront lined with Rossi's ice cream kiosks and then a large ice cream parlour. I must say it was very tasty-white in colour- I prefer that to cream coloured.
The cycle for the rest of the day was very annoying. Essex seems to be made up of islands-Canvey, Foulness, Wallansea etc. and I'm sure there were many ferry services once but now you cycle miles to get around the rivers and estuaries but never seem to make much progress. The River Crouch is not wide but it still presents a long thin barrier. You get to South Fambridge and you could almost throw a stone across to North Fambridge -the roads almost meet and there used to be a ferry and there's talk of starting one again but too late for me.
The lanes are so pretty as you cycle from South woodham Ferrers to Southminster and then on to Burnham on Crouch but the whole thing is spoilt by "Essex lads" racing around testing their souped up cars. It was interesting to note that Bradwell on Sea is nowhere near the sea. Apparently it's also known as Bradwell near the Sea. Yet another nuclear power station-must find how many we have -I think I visited them all. B&B 2miles outside village so had to cycle to pub-hate doing that once I've arrived. Two pints of Spitfire tonight.
Day 12: Bradwell to Frinton 65miles
Breakfast in the conservatory served by a lady who didn't really want to be there. The owners were in Florida. My two companions were very well to do, from a different world to me and spent the time sorting out their social life including "a trip to Glyndebourne with daddy" and a discussion as to the suitability of sunglasses for the South of France-"are they too bling?" The view from the conservatory down to the Blackwater Estuary was lovely.
No one spoke to me and I packed and left without a goodbye-sometimes wished I had a tent.
No one spoke to me and I packed and left without a goodbye-sometimes wished I had a tent.
Set off along the lanes again and still people were driving at 60 when 40 would be more than enough-why don't people just leave a few minutes earlier? Think of the petrol that would be saved and as it was Saturday they were only going shopping or taking the yacht out-traffic moans became a recurring theme of this trip. Went down to St. Lawrence Bay, where there where plenty of pleasure craft and caravans and then into Maldon which had a very busy river frontage with lots of families out walking and a children's waterplay area. Historic boats were moored alongside.
Wound my through many lovely villages to bag another ferry at Wivenhoe. Ferry cafe serving fantastic homemade cakes but no ferry today so had to cycle 15miles to reach other side of river! Cycled along Clacton seafront and then followed sea to Frinton - a smaller quieter seaside town and a good B&B called Uplands. Friendly family run with a very cheerful daughter serving breakfast- a smile and a chat makes all the difference.
Day 13: Frinton to Southwold 81 miles
Set off on the B1034 and then B1414 towards Harwich and the ferry. Realised I was cutting it fine to catch 10.15 sailing and next was 12.15 but luckily wind was behind me and just made it. Docks full of windturbine parts for a new windfarm out at sea.
Next onto the Bawsey ferry with a coffee stop at scouts fundraising tent on Felixstowe seafront. Both sides of Bawdsey River lined with people participating in the new national sport of crabbing. It was happenning in every town and village I went through. The same crabs must be caught time after time- do you remember that cartoon series every summer in one of the newspapers "Eyeballs in the Sky"-it was about a rockpool and the crabs waiting every year for the eyeballs to appear.
Next onto the Bawsey ferry with a coffee stop at scouts fundraising tent on Felixstowe seafront. Both sides of Bawdsey River lined with people participating in the new national sport of crabbing. It was happenning in every town and village I went through. The same crabs must be caught time after time- do you remember that cartoon series every summer in one of the newspapers "Eyeballs in the Sky"-it was about a rockpool and the crabs waiting every year for the eyeballs to appear.
Now following the Suffolk Coastal Route(41) to find my third ferry at Butley except that when I reached Butley and had a piece of carrot cake was told that I'd passed the lane to the ferry 3 miles ago. This was a great ferry but I could have got to Orford an hour earlier by cycling. To get to it had to go down a rough track, across several fields and along the top of a dyke. It's a rowing boat and as the ferryman told me "This ferry has been here for 800 years and it's still the same bloke rowing it." After getting to the other side you had to push the bike for quite a way through nettles and sandy tracks before remounting. The little wooden jetties either side were covered in slippery weed and mud.
When I eventually got to Orford I met two other Mercian riders from the Hereford area. They took photos of us together and they were going to contact me by e mail but I've not heard from them yet so if they are reading this please get in touch. I saw them later in Southwold as they cycled back to their caravan or tent-they'd been to the pub and I was just going. Southwold was very busy and not a good choice for a Bank Holiday as I had trouble finding a B&B and then had to pay top whack for a double room.
Day 14: Southwold to Sheringham 69 miles
The most easterly point
An excellent breakfast. A huge fruit salad followed by a full English. The owner turned out to be Tunisian and used to be a racing cyclist in his youth. Was due to meet Alison today in Heacham, near Hunstanton, but as you will see I never quite got that far.
It was cold and dull today as I cycled on the B1127 through South Cove and Wrentham and then a quick dash along the busy A12 to Lowestoft. This was one of those places that was better than I expected- it had one of those fountains that sends jets of water into the air in time to music. Even today children were getting soaked running in and out of it. I cycled out onto the pier to talk to the anglers who were catching small bass and smoothhounds with still the chance of a spring codling. The water up here is so brown compared to home and when asking about mackerel was told they hadn't seen one for 10 years. This reminds me of the lady from the east coast on holiday in Penzance that I was told about. "Look at this seagull sitting in the water. It's amazing, you can see it's feet."
Cycled up the coast to Corton and Hopton on Sea trying to follow the North Coast cycle route but kept losing it especially in Yarmouth where I ended up in the nature reserve by the River Nare and had to drag my bike and luggage up a steep grass bank onto a busy bridge before cycling into Caister. Stopped at the tourist info office to pick up some cycling route leaflets but they had none at all. Surely all offices should have them but most I went into did not.
The local baker was very helpful and pointed me in the direction of Hemsby and from there it was beautiful country lanes that popped in and out of seaside villages one after another- and still no hills. Winterton on Sea, Horsey, Waxham, Sea Palling, Happisburgh, Walcott, Bacton and Mandesley. One of them had a huge red and white lighthouse but I can't remember which one. All of this area was such a contrast to the coves and hills of Cornwall and this was the fascinating part of this trip-seeing all the contrasting coasts and scenery. I love that "Coast" programme and this was bringing it all alive.
The wind was very strong today and as I reached Cromer and turned to the west the wind was straight in my face and it was about to pour down. I thought about staying here the night but with Alison and Trim in a holiday cottage only 35miles away it seemed a bit silly to waste the money and so Alison came to collect me and just as well because the heavens opened. I'd actually cycled on to Sheringham while she was on the way.
Another bit of good luck was that as I lifted the bike into the car I saw that I had lost a nut from my rack and it was carrying the weight of the panniers on one leg-it would have only been a matter of time before the loose leg swung into the spokes-I picked up some spare nuts in Heacham and checked everything regularly from then on.
I had cycled almost exactly 1000miles so far and it was good to have a few days off and think about the places I'd seen along the south coast and north of the Thames. I was actually really tired and it was hard to think that I'd already done the equivalent of an end to end and had not even gone a quarter of the way!
It was cold and dull today as I cycled on the B1127 through South Cove and Wrentham and then a quick dash along the busy A12 to Lowestoft. This was one of those places that was better than I expected- it had one of those fountains that sends jets of water into the air in time to music. Even today children were getting soaked running in and out of it. I cycled out onto the pier to talk to the anglers who were catching small bass and smoothhounds with still the chance of a spring codling. The water up here is so brown compared to home and when asking about mackerel was told they hadn't seen one for 10 years. This reminds me of the lady from the east coast on holiday in Penzance that I was told about. "Look at this seagull sitting in the water. It's amazing, you can see it's feet."
Cycled up the coast to Corton and Hopton on Sea trying to follow the North Coast cycle route but kept losing it especially in Yarmouth where I ended up in the nature reserve by the River Nare and had to drag my bike and luggage up a steep grass bank onto a busy bridge before cycling into Caister. Stopped at the tourist info office to pick up some cycling route leaflets but they had none at all. Surely all offices should have them but most I went into did not.
The local baker was very helpful and pointed me in the direction of Hemsby and from there it was beautiful country lanes that popped in and out of seaside villages one after another- and still no hills. Winterton on Sea, Horsey, Waxham, Sea Palling, Happisburgh, Walcott, Bacton and Mandesley. One of them had a huge red and white lighthouse but I can't remember which one. All of this area was such a contrast to the coves and hills of Cornwall and this was the fascinating part of this trip-seeing all the contrasting coasts and scenery. I love that "Coast" programme and this was bringing it all alive.
The wind was very strong today and as I reached Cromer and turned to the west the wind was straight in my face and it was about to pour down. I thought about staying here the night but with Alison and Trim in a holiday cottage only 35miles away it seemed a bit silly to waste the money and so Alison came to collect me and just as well because the heavens opened. I'd actually cycled on to Sheringham while she was on the way.
Another bit of good luck was that as I lifted the bike into the car I saw that I had lost a nut from my rack and it was carrying the weight of the panniers on one leg-it would have only been a matter of time before the loose leg swung into the spokes-I picked up some spare nuts in Heacham and checked everything regularly from then on.
I had cycled almost exactly 1000miles so far and it was good to have a few days off and think about the places I'd seen along the south coast and north of the Thames. I was actually really tired and it was hard to think that I'd already done the equivalent of an end to end and had not even gone a quarter of the way!
Day 15: Heacham back to Sheringham 43miles
Today I filled in the gap back to Sheringham and then inland to Holt. The first 1000miles had highlighted a problem-my saddle was very uncomfortable and so I did something not usually recommended-change it in mid tour.
I was very lucky to find that just down the road from where we were staying was an excellent cycle shop at Hunstanton. "Fat Birds Can't Fly" Strange name but an excellent shop - full of titanium bikes up to £5000 or more. www.fatbirds.co.uk
They were very helpful and let me try various saddles until I was happy. I'd made the mistake of selling my old bike when I bought the Mercian with my old comfortable saddle attached-always keep your old one!
Anyway, having made my purchase I set off to meet Alison at Wells Next The Sea. While we were there a group of motorbikers were having a photo shoot for a magazine-part of a regular section in the magazine about recommended routes. Wells and the other seaside villages along this part of Norfolk are lovely-Brancaster, Brancaster Staithe,Burnham Norton, Burnham Ovary Staithe-lovely names and although I call them seaside they are all set back from the sea so I presume the sea has receeded. In each village there seems to be a sign pointing down a long straight road to the beach. This is a more or less totally flat route and after lunch I went through Morston, Blakeney and Cley Next the Sea to Sheringham before turning inland towards Holt. Alison had set up her posh camera up to catch me coming into Holt but just like a scene I remember form the film "Mash" I appeared from behind her.
The next few days was very pleasant, looking around a part of the country I had never visited but it was also quite hard because I wanted to be on my way. The rest of the journey seemed really daunting- this had been the first target but it was far less than a quarter of the way. I slept every afternoon and the time off the bike actually made me feel more tired and psychologically it was difficult to relax. I was helped by the fact that a few yards from our holiday cottage was a pub with it's own micro-brewery-The Fox. I joined the library in Hunstanton so that I could access the internet and this was the first of a collection of library tickets I made.
I was very lucky to find that just down the road from where we were staying was an excellent cycle shop at Hunstanton. "Fat Birds Can't Fly" Strange name but an excellent shop - full of titanium bikes up to £5000 or more. www.fatbirds.co.uk
They were very helpful and let me try various saddles until I was happy. I'd made the mistake of selling my old bike when I bought the Mercian with my old comfortable saddle attached-always keep your old one!
Anyway, having made my purchase I set off to meet Alison at Wells Next The Sea. While we were there a group of motorbikers were having a photo shoot for a magazine-part of a regular section in the magazine about recommended routes. Wells and the other seaside villages along this part of Norfolk are lovely-Brancaster, Brancaster Staithe,Burnham Norton, Burnham Ovary Staithe-lovely names and although I call them seaside they are all set back from the sea so I presume the sea has receeded. In each village there seems to be a sign pointing down a long straight road to the beach. This is a more or less totally flat route and after lunch I went through Morston, Blakeney and Cley Next the Sea to Sheringham before turning inland towards Holt. Alison had set up her posh camera up to catch me coming into Holt but just like a scene I remember form the film "Mash" I appeared from behind her.
The next few days was very pleasant, looking around a part of the country I had never visited but it was also quite hard because I wanted to be on my way. The rest of the journey seemed really daunting- this had been the first target but it was far less than a quarter of the way. I slept every afternoon and the time off the bike actually made me feel more tired and psychologically it was difficult to relax. I was helped by the fact that a few yards from our holiday cottage was a pub with it's own micro-brewery-The Fox. I joined the library in Hunstanton so that I could access the internet and this was the first of a collection of library tickets I made.